Probably gonna start a riot, but

[glenburnieredneck]

Ok, so blah blah if you know me from back in the day, I have the Mazda. Well I sold the Mazda. Anyways, I want something that can handle some trails for camping and all and yes, I was looking at a jeep to buy around tax time. I am talking no more than a 3.5 and 33's to keep it realitivly streetable. Are the new Jeeps as good as the older TJS? I am talking axles, motors, etc. Since I am more than likely coming to the dark side, please learn me in the way of the jeep.

I would want a 44/30 combo at the least. 4 liter, manual or auto doesnt matter much to me.

[CoveJeepsXJ]

If by new jeeps you mean JK's then you aren't going to be able to get the 4.0L.

[dan58]

Just buy yourself a Rubi. Add a 1.25" body lift, 2" lift, 33s, and go. The new ones are too pricey, and the TJ Rubi was around from 03-06....good deals to be had.

[laxfromdundalk]

if you arent set on a rubi and standard tj with work done can be had for pretty cheap too, I kinda wish mine had 4 doors with the kid and all.

[SLEWIS]

97 Was the best year of the 4.0L 98 and 99 were also very good years. EPA forced Jeep to change a few things in 2000 and it has declined since then with emissions regulations and what not. But they are still the 4.0L.

Tranny is the mediocre AX-15 not bad but nothing special.

Not sure what year they started putting 6-speeeds in but that would be sweet to have.

[95heep]

Buy a rubicon

[Happy Bear]

Buy a rubicon
x2, selectable lockers, 4:1 tcase, 31 MTR's, and slightly deeper r&p are the exact mods I would make to a TJ to make a very streetable very capable wheeler. I'd keep it stock except for a stronger steering system and some skid plates.

[Kack]

Don't forget front axleshafts and better control arms.

[Happy Bear]

Don't forget front axleshafts
for 31's? I think if you leave everything stock the axleshafts will hold up just fine.

And if you're bending control arms up, you are well on your way to destroying the jeep and are past the point of having a streetable wheeler and need to move to a trail only rig.

[Buzooka Joe]

i disagree, stock control arms are easy to damage and should be replaced.

[Happy Bear]

i disagree, stock control arms are easy to damage and should be replaced.
Point taken, it will make it hard to drive home with trashed arms.

However, I think you have to be pushing the jeep pretty hard to bend control arms. If your driving it home, full throttle assaults are not a good idea. This is what most bent arms I've seen were a result of.

[glenburnieredneck]

I am really leaning towards the Rubi, I mean I doubt I am gonna go extreme, but I would like to run 33's and handle 4-5's at big dogs, well maybe 35's.

[Happy Bear]

I am really leaning towards the Rubi, I mean I doubt I am gonna go extreme, but I would like to run 33's and handle 4-5's at big dogs, well maybe 35's.
You can run 6 trails on 31" tires :thumbsup:

[atjeep]

You can run 6 trails on 31" tires :thumbsup:

x2
A rubi with about 4" of lift and 33's is a great combination of street and offroad.

[frosty]

x2
A rubi with about 4" of lift and 33's is a great combination of street and offroad.


Pffft, you only need a budget boost to clear Q78s. Just ask Cerebus. :lol::flipoff2:

[Cerebus]

Fucking A right. :)

[Kack]

stock lower control arms are stamped sheet metal. Drag them over something and they catch hell. Yes, ft axleshafts for 31's. I've broken them with 30's and open. Those little things don't take much.

[frosty]

stock lower control arms are stamped sheet metal. Drag them over something and they catch hell. Yes, ft axleshafts for 31's. I've broken them with 30's and open. Those little things don't take much.

I'll assume you are talking about a D30 so I'll give a different view. I wheeled it on 32s, stock shafts and a locker with no breakage for a couple years. So its all in how you drive I guess.

If I ran across some cheap alloy shafts for either the D30 or the rubi D44 then sure I'd buy them. But I wouldnt go out of my way to do so on 33s or less. I did buy them for the Q78s (35s) I ran on rubi D44s though and would do so again. At least the fronts.

[dan58]

stock lower control arms are stamped sheet metal. Drag them over something and they catch hell. Yes, ft axleshafts for 31's. I've broken them with 30's and open. Those little things don't take much.

With 15 minutes of a welder and $30 CA skids, mine held up quite nicely. And D30s are tough little sonsabitches. Shit, Pearson didn't even break one. :dan2:

[Buzooka Joe]

and that right there says a lot

[jpowers]

for 31's? I think if you leave everything stock the axleshafts will hold up just fine.

And if you're bending control arms up, you are well on your way to destroying the jeep and are past the point of having a streetable wheeler and need to move to a trail only rig.

I'd have to agree on the axleshafts, at least for a rubi. There were enough of them tossing caps and doing dumb things that it should at least be on the list. Maybe not immediate, but being budgeted for.

I've ripped stock upper front CA's in 1/2 just doing some flexy trails @ paragon.

But yeah, if I needed something to fit your reqs.. I'd be looking at a TJ or LJ rubi.

Would either do a 1"BL and 2" BB and 33"s or if I had more $$ to play with a 2"BB or OME and a AEV highline kit and 35s.

Also.. remember the terms streetable and driveable are relative around here. I've got a 1997 TJ on 35s with long arms, 140k on the clock, that I drove across the country towing a trailer and still DD most of the time :)

Jason