Links

[Shane]

Got in a few discussions this weekend over links and im wondering what your opinions are on Aluminum links vs DOM.

Thinking about aluminum lowers, with dom uppers.

thoughts?

[dan58]

7075 and call it a day.

[54ford]

Besides weight why aluminum? It isn't like you are going to have a light weight buggy

[dan58]

Besides weight why aluminum? It isn't like you are going to have a light weight buggy

Because they bend back, unlike steel.

[54ford]

Because they bend back, unlike steel.
That's a +

[Cowboy]

I don't know, we had a guy with a heavy duty aluminum tie rod, and it didn't bend back. Although it had probly flexed through more and stayed straight up until the time of failure.

[Z28YJ]

How about square lowers?

[dan58]

I don't know, we had a guy with a heavy duty aluminum tie rod, and it didn't bend back. Although it had probly flexed through more and stayed straight up until the time of failure.

It's hard to compare a 1.25" tie rod to 2" lowers though.

[Happy Bear]

It really doesn't matter too much, just do it right so you are not replacing the links at the end of the season.

7075 is really good material for links, lightweight, doesn't bend(some say it bends back, but I've never seen a 2" bar deflect), and takes the severest of abuse.

If you are talking about a 6,000lb truck you are probably going to want 2.5" 7075 lowers or 2.25" x .375 DOM.

2" x .375 may be ok, but again I'd go overkill so you're not buying more tube at the end of the season. Increasing the OD of the tube effects the strength much more then increasing the wall thickness.

2.5" 7075 = 6lb/foot = $50/foot
2.25" x .375 DOM = 7.5lb/foot = $25/foot

I'd go DOM

[Happy Bear]

How about square lowers?
Round, Square, whats the difference?

We're talking 7075 vs A513-Type 5

Both materials can be had in round, square, rectangular, etc.

[Z28YJ]

I meant 2" box steel, .25" wall. It's what I run for my lowers. It's cheap enough and I haven't bent one yet.

[Cowboy]

It's hard to compare a 1.25" tie rod to 2" lowers though.True, I was just throwing that out there for some brain candy.
;)

[Happy Bear]

Shane, what size DOM and 7075 were you considering?

[Shane]

Dont know yet, Im hoping someone smarter then me in the link department would know the answer to that :)

[doug38s]

freakin steel bends and bends bad when it happens. now square stuff might be the ticket. ole Clayton uses it pretty good. I;ve had 2" 7075 lower and uppers for 6 years now and only one has a slight bend to it.

[phillyzj]

i'm running 2x2x.25 lowers... haven't bent one in the past but i wasn't that hard on my junk. and i can't tell about the current setup...

[matt-chris]

It doesn't matter what they are made out of or what shape they are as long as they open in a new window :flipoff2:

[Jack]

When I saw the thread I thought it was about hyperlinks too. Shew.

[gr8whytyj]

They experts say 7075 can take a 33% bend and return to original form. If you shock load them and do anymore than 33% they will stay bent. I'm upgrading my rear 1.75 7075 links to 2" because I did bend a rear lower the other weekend(already have 2'' up front). The DOM will take a lot of hits(get dented) and will eventually bend. I have heard of guys running cheaper round aluminum(6063 and such) inside DOM links to keep it from denting or even round plastic.

[Happy Bear]

If you dent 2.25 x .375 you're doing something right. And who cares about dents as long as it's straight.

Clayton does like the square stuff but he runs square 7075 links on his buggy

[Numidian]

If you run square links, run them 45* to the ground, so that it's a point down and a point up (no flat is parallel to the ground). That maximizes your vertical dimension and adds increased strength in the up down direction, which is the most likely plane for a bend.

I was/am considering linking the ass of my 4runner and if I do it, I'll definitely be going with square tube.

[phillyzj]

If you run square links, run them 45* to the ground, so that it's a point down and a point up (no flat is parallel to the ground). That maximizes your vertical dimension and adds increased strength in the up down direction, which is the most likely plane for a bend.

I was/am considering linking the ass of my 4runner and if I do it, I'll definitely be going with square tube.

seems like that would morely likely hurt you :confused:

[lowdown]

Structurally, it definitely helps since the /\ surface is less likely to dent then one of the flat surfaces which decreases the chances of the link folding.

[Numidian]

seems like that would morely likely hurt you :confused:

How would it hurt you? Care to explain your thoughts?

[lowdown]

Only down side I could see is the link is effectively "taller" run /\ this way. Argument could be made about getting hung up/hitting stuff due to loss of clearance.

[Numidian]

Only down side I could see is the link is effectively "taller" run /\ this way. Argument could be made about getting hung up/hitting stuff due to loss of clearance.
If he used 2" tube, it's 2.8" from corner to corner... I doubt that an extra .4" in height is going to hit something or make a difference in getting hung up on something.

[lowdown]

I agree but like I said, the argument "could" be made.

[phillyzj]

i was thinking that it could change the geometry of how the link takes a hit. You are also putting all the force on the corner yeilding an higher PSI, instead of spreading it over the width.

Ultimately i don't think it matters a ton...

You also lose "ground clearance" with the face parallel to the ground.

[Twiss]

I used 2" .250 wall DOM Lower and 1.75" .120 wall uppers on my 98 TJ.. The new owner has been using for 3 years now and the joint finally broke...


Something always have to give... I say no matter what carry a spare link in the tow rig..

[Shane]

yea i intend to carry a spare upper and lower, with spare link or 2.

[PartsGuy]

I am going to tell ya that I luv my 7075 solid aluminum of my suspension , and have yet to bend any of it . Had it on the rig for the last 4 years and still yet to damage it at all , I have seen it bend but comes back to shape with no damage .
Shane , if I were you I would use 3 in in the lower sections and 2.25 or 2.5 in the upper links with the 1.25 in heims on the bottom and 1 in heims on the tops . That way you wont have to worry about anything , and it should hold up well even the way you drive

Randy

[Shane]

wheres a good source for aluminum link material?

[doug38s]

search online is your best bet. I got all of mine for less than 400$ shipped from pittsburg if I remember right. If you wanted links made branik machine can do them and with joints were like a 175 a piece last time I looked.

[Shane]

cool, i think ill have to mock up the suspension first then order what i need to length.

[Brandon95yj]

the branik links are money... i love mine

[gr8whytyj]

Just buy Clayton Arms, they have a lifetime warranty:flipoff2:

[Grason]

Just buy Clayton Arms, they have a lifetime warranty:flipoff2:

I like the way you think.