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lowdown
01-26-2010, 12:34 AM
I just wrapped up a 100A/240V, sub panel install into my garage and thought this write up might be useful to someone attempting to do something similar. I plan on covering everything down to the nitty grit. I would not have tackled this project without a good friend of mine who is an electrician.

House: Single phase, 200A service. Main panel is a Cutler Hammer "CH" style panel.

Trenching:
3 years ago, my electrician buddy and I upgraded the service to my garage from a 20A/120V to a 40A/240V service. At the time, we trenched and buried two runs of PVC conduit; 1 run of 3/4" and 1 run of 1." We used the 3/4" for the 20A/120V service. We placed the 1" for a future, larger amperage service. 3 years later, I'm really glad we did that.
Trenchers are available from Sunbelt Rental, United Rental, Home Depot, etc.

Garage Electrical Demand:
-Welder #1: Max draw = ~45A @ 240V. Welder placed on dedicated
50A/240V circuit.
-Compressor: Max draw = ~12A @ 240V. Placed on dedicated 20A/240V
circuit.
-Future Drill Press: Max draw = ~10A @ 240V. Future dedicated 20A/240V
circuit.
-Welder #2: Max draw = ~20A @ 120V. Placed on dedicated 20A/240V
circuit.
-Electrical Hand Tools, Chop Saw, Parts Washer, etc..Max draw = ~20A/ 120V (each). Placed on dedicated 20A/120V circuit.
-Interior and Exterior Lighting: Placed on dedicated 15A/120V circuit.

The Total distance from house panel to garage panel is approximately 135 feet. When measuring yours, be very generous. Measure both horizontally and vertically; ie. up and down walls as well as along walls. For instance, I have to come up approximately 4' up/out of my house panel into my basement ceiling. From there, another 30' in the basement ceiling then another 4' to the junction box set on my foundation wall. Total run (just in the house) = 38 feet. I bought 45 feet of wire for just this run.

The remaining run starts at a 6"x6"x4" junction box placed on the interior of my foundation wall, penetrates my foundation wall, and continues through the 1" PVC conduit in my back yard, into my garage. This is approximately another 80 feet. I noted 90' to account for having to turn 90* down into the back yard, coming back up at the garage, the position of the new panel, and having something to tape to while pulling the wire. I purchased 270' of primary wire and 90' of ground wire for this run. This wire for this run was fed through the 1" PVC conduit I had trench for and buried about 3 years ago.

The overall run is essentially:
House panel -> Junction Box @ Foundation Wall -> Garage

Materials:
I purchased everything but the wire @ Lowes since their wire prices are ridiculous. In retrospect, I wish I had priced everthing through the place where I ended up getting the wire. Anyway..

Garage panel - Cutler Hammer "Renovation Main Breaker Load Center." It's a 100A main breaker load center (panel), "BR" type, with 20 spaces. For about $65.00 you get the panel, the main breaker and a handful of other breakers, not a bad deal especially considering you can return the breakers you don't/won't use. Be aware that there are both main lug and main breaker style panels. Main lug panels do not have a main breaker (like your house panel) but main breaker style panels do. "BR" type has to do with the load center and breaker type.

Breakers - Be aware of the difference between single pole (120V) and double/2 pole (240V) breakers. Cutler Hammer makes both both CH and BR style breakers for the two different types of panels. Square D, another manufacturer, has different lines of breakers for its Q.O. and Homelite panel types.
-My house panel is a Cutler Hammer "CH" panel so I purchased a Cutler Hammer CH type 2 pole 100A breaker; pricey @ about $50 for just the breaker.
-The garage sub panel is a BR type which included a BR type 2 pole 100A breaker, five single pole 20A breakers and one 2 pole 30A breaker. I also purchased: one 2 pole 20A breaker and a few single pole 15A breakers.

Wire - Determining what wire you use with has everything to do with the over all electrical demand, wire ampacity (how much amperage the wire can carry), distance, packaging and cost. This is where knowing an electrical is handy since they have the books and knowledge on wire to run safely as well as conform to code. I used the following:

House panel to junction box @ foundation wall:
#1 Aluminum S.E. (Service Entrance) cable. The cable I used includes three #1 (three 1 gauge conductors) and one bare #3 ground. 120V along one leg of #1, 120V along the second leg of #1, nuetral along the third leg of #1, and ground along the bare #3. It essentially looks like a huge piece of Romex since it's all encased in a grey plastc jacket.

Junction Box to garage panel:
Three #3 THHN copper conductors and one #8 THHN copper conductor. #3 is the proper sized copper wire to carry 100A at 90' while the #8 is the proper size for ground to use for the same application.

50A welder circuit: #6 THHN X 2 (conductors), #10 THHN x1 (ground)
All the other circuits were already run with 12-2 Romex (#12 x 2, and ground).

Other Materials
-Split Bolts: Split bolts are used to make splices, the ones I purchased are made from aluminum. The come in handful of different size ranges. I purchased four split bolts for #3 wire and one for

lowdown
01-26-2010, 06:40 PM
Connections:
Conduit
If you already have PVC glue, use it without the primer (purple, separate can). If not, grab a can of PVC cement.
We ran 1" PVC conduit between the interior of garage to the interior of my house's foundation wall. At the garage exterior, Carl set a 1" LB off the 1" conduit we had installed way back when. He snaked it over to the existing hole in the wall by heating the conduit with a propane torch. At the garage interior, he set another LB then ran a short section of conduit up, into the panel, secured with a male 1" PVC connector and steel ring. The 50A dedicated circuit was also run in the 1" PVC conduit, surface mounted with 1" PVC straps, to the exposed garage wall studs. It was tied into the panel with a male 1" PVC connector and steel ring.
http://inlinethumb27.webshots.com/37914/2340940780105281067S600x600Q85.jpg (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2340940780105281067ufmDVC)
http://inlinethumb48.webshots.com/46447/2964747350105281067S600x600Q85.jpg (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2964747350105281067LZnyOC)

At the interior of the house's foundation wall, I took down the existing 4"x4"x2" junction box after removing the existing 6-3 romex and connectors. The original service was run through the interior of the foundation wall, to the garage, in 3/4" conduit. We removed the 3/4" LB outside and knocked the 3/4" sleeve out of the penetration hole in the foundation. I then had to drill out the hole, with a hammer drill and 1 3/8" bit, to accommodate the new 1" conduit. I rented the hammer drill and bit both from Home Depot; total cost was $63 for 4 hours of rental. Ironic considering it took me of all 45 seconds to drill out the hole. We then cut the 1" conduit coming out of the ground to length, cut the sleeve, and set the new 1" LB. The sleeve was tied into the 6"x6" box with a 1" male PVC connector and 1" ring.
House
http://inlinethumb37.webshots.com/25828/2408263640105281067S600x600Q85.jpg (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2408263640105281067SJajQD)
Garage
http://inlinethumb29.webshots.com/32220/2318712300105281067S600x600Q85.jpg (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2318712300105281067MLrhJs)
Foundation Wall (Interior)
[IMG]http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/9182/2791467860105281067S600x600Q85.jpg
(http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2791467860105281067ugbuvA)

WIRE
After the conduit was all tied together, we started running the wire. We started outside, by pulling the three #3 THHN copper conductors and the one #8 THHN copper conductors.
After removing the face plates from the LBs, Carl ran the fish tape down one LB, up and out, through the other. He stripped about 6" back off each wire. For the #3 wire, he then cut the wire, leaving about 3 strands per each #3 conductor. He twisted the 9 strands together, taped them and the #8 together. He ran that mess through his fish reel tape. We lubed up the first three feet or so of the bundle with dish soap then started pulling. After a few minutes of coordinated pushing and pulling, we got the wire in the pipe. With the fish tape removed, we started feeding the wires through the LBs. Each wire was fed through the LBs individually, starting with the wire closest to the back of the LB. At the house side, the wire was fed through the 1" sleeve in the foundation wall, into the 6" box at the house interior. At the garage side, the wire was run through the interior LB, up into the panel, and terminated into the 100A main breaker. With that done, we jumped on running the SE cable inside the house.

We ran the SE cable up into the ceiling through an ceiling access panel. From there, we ran it one way to the main house panel, and the other way, along the foundation wall then down to a 6"x6"x4" PVC junction box, placed on the foundation wall; within a small utility closet in my basement. We secured the SE cable to the floor joists and framing with 1" romex staples. We attached the box to a stud with dry wall screws. The SE cable was brought into the box through a 1" hole and secured with another 1" romex connector. The aluminum SE cable was connected the #3 and #8 copper conductors using aluminum split bolts.
http://media.incomsupply.com/products/538728.gif
After tightening, each bolt is wrapped in rubber tape until it's about the size of a golf ball. Carl then wrapped each ball with the correct color electrical tape; black, white, red, and green; for each leg of the service.

Connecting the aluminum SE cable to the house panel required:
-CH style 2 pole 100A breaker
-1" romex connector
-Two #3 lug kits to allow for connecting the neutral and ground to neutral bus bar.
-Noalox which is an anti-oxidizer and anti-size liquid compound; applied to all the aluminum conductors (two mains at the breaker, the nuetral and the ground).

Once the wire was connected inside, we jumped back outside and finished tying the existing garage circuits into the new panel; receptacles, lights, and air compressor.
I was good go once Carl checked the connections and voltages.