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Dave01XJ
08-03-2009, 10:53 PM
The top bolt on my shackle is getting harder to turn and I don't want to snap it. ( I hope to Fawk I didn't snap the welded bolt!)
I been shooting PB on it and working it by treading in and out...any other thoughts in working these bolts out.:happybear:

Also when I dropped my rear and the leafs started to seperate I found my 2" add-a-leaf was broke in half:dan1:

frosty
08-03-2009, 11:03 PM
My guess is even if you get the bolt out it'll be buggered up. I know I wouldnt plan on using it again. You can get grade 8 replacements from TSC.

CoveJeepsXJ
08-03-2009, 11:20 PM
The top bolt on my shackle is getting harder to turn and I don't want to snap it.
I been shooting PB on it and working it by treading in and out...any other thoughts in working these bolts out.:happybear:

Also when I dropped my rear and the leafs started to seperate I found my 2" add-a-leaf was broke in half:dan1:

The bolt is probably seized up in the bushing sleeve.

You could cut the bolt on both sides of the shackle inside the hanger and then just replace the bolts. (That is how I did it, I think...)

Dave01XJ
08-03-2009, 11:30 PM
My guess is even if you get the bolt out it'll be buggered up. I know I wouldnt plan on using it again. You can get grade 8 replacements from TSC.

Thanks Dave...I think they came with bolts but I will keep that in mind.

on the cutting thing...did you use a wheel grinder of saw zaw? and was there
any material left in the frame weld that would have to drill out?

Adding more, found this info on the web...same popping is going on with me.

( I just went slow and steady, working it out. The bolt kepts popping, making me think it had actually broke, but with some patience i got mine out.)

Dave01XJ
08-04-2009, 12:05 AM
looking in to cutting.

then doing this...for later access.

bigdummy30
08-04-2009, 12:25 AM
depending on how nice yours is ,its also pretty easy to go through the floor in the hatch area to access that/those bolts....it keeps the underside a little more sealed from rust and crap... and the carpet will cover it up decently...

CoveJeepsXJ
08-04-2009, 07:37 AM
on the cutting thing...did you use a wheel grinder of saw zaw? and was there
any material left in the frame weld that would have to drill out?

Adding more, found this info on the web...same popping is going on with me.

( I just went slow and steady, working it out. The bolt kepts popping, making me think it had actually broke, but with some patience i got mine out.)

It has been a while since I did it, but I believe it was a combo of a the Sawz-all and air powered cutoff wheel.
I believe I was able to back out the remaining portion of the bolt that was still left in the welded nut. If you are able to turn the bolt then I would say that the bolt is loose in the nut but bound up in the bushing.
I bet the popping is the bolt grabbing and then letting go inside the bushing.

When you torque on the bolt and let off pressure does it want to spin the socket back to the right?

Dave01XJ
08-04-2009, 09:26 AM
When you torque on the bolt and let off pressure does it want to spin the socket back to the right?

haven't done that yet...working with a breaker bar...guess I should put a ratchet on it.

I'm thinking of drilling a hole in the welded nut pocket and spray PB up it.

Dave, I checked last night I only have the lower shackle bolt not the upper's...so I will be getting new ones grade 8...where can I shop for them...

atjeep
08-04-2009, 12:40 PM
I had to cut the shackle bolts off my YJ. I used a cutting wheel on a 4.5" angle grinder. I slid the cutting wheel on the inside of the mounting bracket between the bushing and the mounting bracket, like Nick said.
The mounting bracket is a little more open on a YJ, so I don't know if you can do it the same way.

67temp
08-04-2009, 01:10 PM
I found it sometimes helps to lightly tap the bolt head with a hammer. If the bolt has backed out a litlle maybe put an adjustable between the head and mount and tap that with a hammer or pry while using a ratchet.

When you get it all apart and reassemble remember to use anitseize.

Dave01XJ
08-04-2009, 08:01 PM
thanks all I will try all the suggestions...got another can of PB and plan on soaking it over night and work on it tomorrow.

Dave01XJ
08-05-2009, 06:57 PM
Ok... I ended up getting the top bolt out but the bottom did not want to budge..took
4 inch grinder and cut the rest of the shackle off and the bolt head as it was rusted to the shackle....now I have the bolt and bolt sleeve stuck in the bushing and will not budge with a 3pound sledge hammer...thinking I will end up buying new rear bolts and bushings. Now any suggestions on getting the old bushing and bolt out of the eye? Dave

Ripster
08-05-2009, 07:08 PM
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/images/oxy-acetylene-cutting-torch.jpg

Dave01XJ
08-05-2009, 07:19 PM
Thanks B!!!.....can you bring that over and melt the bushing for me!!!

Thinks I will just drill out the bushing and see if AOI has some I can buy.

Looking at this to replace the short AAL that broke in half on the driver side.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/MkMdlYrSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&N=1561976+4294961612&Ne=1147708&searchType=MkMdlYrSearch

Ripster
08-05-2009, 07:25 PM
How about the sixth item down in this for sale post instead of another crappy add-a-leaf?
http://www.marylandcreepers.com/MCForums/showthread.php?t=238

Dave01XJ
08-05-2009, 09:23 PM
Thanks Rippy for having a good memory and keeping a eye out... I just posted wanting them.

Looks like I will start taking the whole leafspring out if I can get them.

with the 1.5 shackle that would lift me to 4-4.5 inches in the rear...may need to adjust the front.
The springs I got for the front are 3 inch pro comps used from Jeramie (If I remember correctly).